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Context is key. No one color is selected in a vacumn. What type flooring? Other furniture colors? Cabinet color? Natural light? Fixtures?
If no other wood tones are present, pale engineered European Oak with an ultra matte finish. Hakwood has an extensive range of tones from palest to darkest to choose from. Link
Rustic grade is a casual choice.
I would drywall and paint them the same color as the ceiling.
agree with ^ @millworkman
Especially in a basement application. Keep the ceiling light so it feels higher.
Drywall
@Steven Mock a hip roof can be low slope, and a steeper pitched roof still has ice dam worries, so see if you can have AI learn that.
Can you please post photos of the room and the furnishing. Will help folks out with answering your question. I would love to help you out as I am a big fan of painted pieces. I have painted a number of my own family pieces.
Context is key. Post up pics.
Linen Studio RG ( on etsy) makes beautiful European linen shades. Just send them your dimensions. Affordable and high quality.
Dorita B , OP asked 9 years ago.
"So true A S!"
At first I thought a 'S' was missing.
2 yeard old post.................................
All good, still happily married.
Millworkman, the purpose of that post was the get the business name out there.
@Diana Bier, also Brianform & Stoneform has been spamming many old poststhe last few days,
We are replying to anyone interested to evaluate our suggestions. Appreciate you like it
I’d be cautious about choosing based on the ice shield alone. Ridge vents only work properly with enough intake at the soffits, so I’d ask each roofer to show the planned ventilation area and explain what happens if the soffits can’t supply it. A powered fan can create odd pressure issues if intake is limited, while gable vents may be useful but aren’t always a substitute for balanced soffit-to-ridge airflow. I’d also have the local building department confirm the ice-barrier requirements.
" I’d be cautious about choosing based on the ice shield alone "
@Hob A does not really matter much now as the roof was done 2 years ago....................
Capped decking will not absorb water, so it's normal for the water to be beading on the surface; that is normal... Picture the hood of the car, even with the slope; the water will bead on it, but it will not puddle.
When you have water puddling on the surface, that becomes an issue it could be crowned decking board, which is a defect; it could be a low spot or a lack of slope...
Deck drainage depends on having overall slope, min 1/8 per foot, so the water drains between the decking boards, which must be free of debris, etc.
I mean, it's easy to see what the issue is in that area; you don't see beading on it, you see standing water (that's what it looks like in that picture), which is not normal. Just check the boards, put a level on the deck, and see if the joists were never crowned properly and created a low spot.
The homeowner should call Fiberon or the place the material came from, and they will send a local representative to evaluate the issue, and you will know exactly what it is.
" I never heard about any spray being applied to decking for protection. "
Definitely never heard of such a thing or what the substance would even be. I wonder how this "protectant" would affect the Fiberon warranty and how they feel about it. My issue now is the contractor is obviously BS'ing you which leads me to believe you will shortly be on your own.
What is the exact "wood tones" of the vanity? I see no reason for marble halfway up a choppy wall in what seems a choppy layout.
From what I see? Repeat on the floor, whatever is on your shower WALLS.....
What is vanity top?
Larger spaces that are toughrt to change first. Start with the floor. And since you are doing this piecemeal instead of a full plan before starting match the wall tile. The room is a sum of the parts and all the parts need to work togther which is why the bigger tougher to change areas (ie floors) need to be chosen first or at least together at the same time as the balance of the finishes.
Anderson does not install Andersen A-Series windows... :-)
I fail to understand why people gut a space before having a concrete plan {head scratch}.
@Georgiy Kharchenko
What a useless AI response, no help now or later\.
"it is condensation and not a leak" - hmmm, I didn't see a sink or shower on the roof for a leak.
"gutter downspout clog" - you can just look at the pictures and see no gutters.
" This comment is in reply to pcmom1 telling everyone to "play nice". "
@Chris Petersen, dead ears when you have pulled up a 10 year old post..................
32 inches is workable if you're usually cooking alone, but it does feel tight in practice. The usual rule of thumb is 36 inches minimum for a main walkway, and 42 inches if two people cook together. The other thing I'd check is what swings into that space — an open oven door, a dishwasher, or a drawer can eat up most of those 32 inches fast, and that's when it really starts to feel cramped, especially carrying a hot pan. If 36 inches is at all possible in your layout, I'd go for it.
" Read the label rather than the brand name: look for 100% silicone "
@Georgiy Kharchenko year old post.............................
Yes, GE Silicone is 100% silicone caulk as it says on the label!
Impatient, extremely short attention spans are rampant, and worsening daily. We're frying brains , courtesy that device in your hand.
"Impatient, extremely short attention spans are rampant, and worsening daily. We're frying brains , courtesy that device in your hand."
Yep.
" Looking forward to seeing how it turns out! "
David Wilson , 11 year old post................................................
we had one very similar to yours. very high maintenance!!
Do the entire house in one type of siding, and choose the one that fits your budget. The rendering looks very busy to me with all the different materials.
Long term staying in the home, you do you.
Random thoughts:
- This all feels like a mis-step.
- No, a baby bath won't be satsifactory for grandchildren -- not past the infant stage. I'm picking my 5-year old grandson up today /keeping him for the school holiday tomorrow, and he doesn't yet use showers.
- Your house is big enough to have 3 bathrooms? You need a tub somewhere -- it's a basic expectation. I hear you when you say you're not selling for many years, but it will become an issue.
- The typical trade-off is, We have no tub, but we have a large, luxurious shower. That's not what I hear you saying. 2 tiny showers + 1 modest shower do not compensate for the loss of a tub.
- If you do go this direction, don't do a built-in bench -- they really eat in to the space and can leak. Instead, choose a teak stool. It can be moved (or removed). When my mom had shoulder surgery and couldn't raise her arm to wash her own hair, it was great to be able to put the stool in the middle of the shower, and I'd enter after she was settled /stand behind her to wash her hair.
- Also, if you go this direction, be sure to go with a hand-held showerhead on a slide. If the shower-er is seated, you want him or her to be able to lower the showerhead to a comfortable height.
- Finally, a thought on fold-down seats: My mom had one in a place she lived temporarily, and I didn't care for it, but maybe the devil was in the details: It was a walk-in shower in the space of a typical tub -- 3x5 -- the hand-held shower head was on one short wall, and the seat was on the other. The shower head couldn't reach comfortably to wash your hair or back while seated. If the shower head had been mid-space /on the long end, maybe it would've been better.
how often do grandkids bathe at their grandparents house. They also sell inflatable and foldable portable tubs that fit in a shower for those few rare occasions a presently nonexistent toddler grandchild might need a tub.
" Amazing the amount of wild guesses and just plain wrong assumptions. "
MoBA Construction Amazing thing is you searched for and dug up a 2 year old post for that diatribe on a long since finished project.
A spot that stays dark for weeks while the rest of the stone has dried is a moisture problem, not just the stone's normal variation. A simple check is to tape a square of plastic wrap over the dark area for a day: if moisture gathers under it, water is coming up through the stone or the setting bed. Before the walls are closed, ask for a flood test of the pan and a check of the drain connection, since even a few hours of standing water there will show what the tile hides.
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH VINTAGE DOORS!! They are theives!
" DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH VINTAGE DOORS!! They are theives! "
Context is key if you would like a review to be taken seriously.............................
than the frame. Low SHGC glass does the most on the west-facing bay, where afternoon sun is what makes rooms hard to cool, and a low U-factor keeps the rooms near the windows from feeling cold and drafty in winter. Foam-filled frames and better spacers do less for the bill but reduce drafts and condensation at the edges, which is what you feel when you sit near a window. Before paying for the upgrade on all 37, have an installer or energy auditor check which rooms actually have a heat or cold problem, and consider high-performance glass on the west and south exposures with standard glass on shaded sides. Ask each installer for the NFRC label on the exact options so you can compare the numbers for your windows.
" My question: how much is it really worth paying for the pella window upgrades such as foam or advanced comfort plus or sundefense, etc "
The correct glass package is paramount. That being said are you 100% sold on Pella as you can do much better? Personally I would leave what I had before purchasing Pella but that is me.
Platinum Realty and HelpMeNow.com months old post at this point. Digging up old posts (especially Platinum Realty) is really a useless endeavor as 95% of the posts you posted on were quite old, many years old.
Until the loose balusters are fixed, keep children and anyone leaning on the rail off that section, because those are the parts most likely to give way. Before you choose between patching and replacing, probe the framing with a screwdriver: the rim joist, the beams under the boards and the posts at the bottom. Wood that is soft or crumbles under the tip is rotted through, and a patch will not hold it, while surface rot on the decking and rails can often be cut out and replaced. Pay the most attention to the ledger board where the deck attaches to the house, since rot there is the costliest failure to find, and look for water running behind it from the siding or flashing. If the posts, footings and ledger are sound, replacing the rotten boards and balusters is usually the lower-cost route, and a solid repaired deck will help at sale time. Take close-up photos of the ledger, the beams and any soft spots before you decide, since they show the condition much better than a description.
6 year old post dug out of the heap by Emily Parker to add AI for her first and to date only activity here. Just adding to the pile of AI that is being dumped on us recently by new posters. Not sure why anyone would dig up a post of this subject without an agenda.
I understand your concern. I came across this discussion while exploring different perspectives on the topic and thought it was interesting enough to contribute to. I didn't realize how old the original post was. My intention was simply to share a perspective and learn from others, not to promote anything. I appreciate your feedback!
Deb is not worth the headache, but if you think your credit card will get you some refund, etc go for it.
It's an inexpensive repair; if this guy doesn't want to do the right thing, give him a bad review; that will be a bigger punishment for his business.
That said, any handyman who is familiar with carpentry can swap these 2 planks in under 30 min. It's a very simple repair.
Good luck
For me, no shutters is a cleaner look, especially since you have wide trim.
I say no shutters. When I bought my home in late 2020 the longtime outdoor shutters were removed from the windows. Every one of my neighbors has those shutters but they are decor only as they could never cover a window if they were able to be closed, and they cannot. So when I had to make a decision I looked at my shutter-less house and then up and down the street. It took me less than a minute to realize how much cleaner and more beautiful my home looked without them. I made the right decision.
No shutters on your lovely home. Shutters are not decoration. Shutters are architectural and belong on a traditional style home. Shutters should not be vinyl, attached to the siding, and should have appropriate, authentic hardware. Your home, a raised ranch, was not meant to have shutters.
My one thought is the white of the garage doors:
Stubbing utilities now is usually cheaper than trenching later, but on a well and septic lot the septic is the deciding factor, not the pipe.
Talk to whoever is designing and permitting your septic before anything else. A system is sized by bedroom count and sited for its drain field. If the ADU is not in the design now, you may need a second system later, and there may not be room for one. Ask whether they can design it now for four bedrooms with the future unit's location shown.
For a future manufactured home, ask your county what foundation they require. Many places want a permanent foundation for it to count as an ADU, which affects where the stubs come up.
Practical tips: run conduit for power rather than wire, so you can size the cable later; mark and photograph every stub with measurements; and check whether your power provider wants a separate meter. On an RV: most counties do not allow one as a permanent dwelling, so check before you plan around it.
T.J. Stack 7 YEAR OLD POST. Would be certain long since either finished or forgotten about.
They really need to look correct with your home, please post a pic of your house and area inb question. Context is key.
The durability of the tiles would depend on the base. Since you say you currently have dirt are you planning to put a concrete slab down to install the tiles on top of? Otherwise a thick well compacted base of type two and then sand would be necessary as 3/4 inch isn't going to be very sturdy without good support.
I agree with mojavemaria — the base is really the whole decision here. At 3/4 inch, Saltillo is beautiful but not forgiving, so on dirt I'd want a properly compacted base (and a concrete slab if your installer recommends it for your soil and freeze/thaw conditions) rather than setting it straight on dirt and hoping it stays level. A couple of practical things I'd check: make sure the patio slopes slightly away from the house for drainage, seal it well and plan on resealing — unsealed Saltillo stains and wears fast outdoors — and order extra, maybe 10-15% over, because the color variation is part of the charm but you'll want to be able to set aside any tiles that are too pale, too dark, or chipped for your taste. If you can, get a few samples and lay them out in the actual light on your patio first; Saltillo looks very different in sun versus shade. Done right, it can add a lot of warmth and character to an outdoor space — it's a great look for a patio.
" what carpet would you recommend?
" zits a rental so need to leave colors and existing jute carpet. "
Which is it, replacing or having to leave it?
All the wood furniture needs an airy and light backdrop, so cream fabric in curtains, light olive/orange/cream painting ( lighter than this image here) will bring out the colors of the wood in the furniture and make it a very clean looking space, functional enough as an office.
Perhaps wait until room is furnished; think big picture before deciding on a rug as where/what/style furniture will dictate the rug’s size and design. The walls and carpeting are neutral enough to suit almost anything so base on the above items. May even decide a rug isn’t needed.
That hazy look with nothing you can feel on either side is a strong clue it is between the panes, as the featured answer says. We had a similar window at home in San Clemente and no amount of washing or squeegeeing changed it, because the moisture was inside the sealed unit. A quick check that helped us was looking at the glass first thing in the morning and on a cooler day — if the haze shifts with temperature, it is almost certainly a failed seal rather than a cleaning problem, and a glass specialist can advise on replacing just that unit.
pierviewcleaner 8 year old post................
Why are you asking? Did you do this for a customer?
@ Boss Design Center - " Great as a bridge if you're selling soon or saving up for the real remodel. "
I disagree - when I was looking to purchase a home one of the houses I was very interested in based on the architecture and exterior had painted the countertop to mimic granite in the bathroom. My two sisters and I all knew it was painted and it was a huge red flag. He was covering up problems instead of fixing them. If he did this, how did I know if he waterproofed behind the tile properly or did any other fixes properly.
I had just sold my home, where I did have the bathroom sink epoxy coated to cover some stains. It matched the countertop. I knew it was a cover, would last 1-3 years and I knew it would not be obvious to buyers or cause red flags.
Since you asked, love what you did with the cabinets. I don’t care for the counter or backsplash. Aesthetically it takes away from the cabs in my opinion and I question durability. Given budget considerations, I would have replaced counters with big box laminate in a light , bright white/beige/pattern and gone simple with a solid color, complementary backsplash.
See the other post you made that I commeted on. This starting to show you why you do not make 2 posts on the same subject......................
How abpout a sage green. Certainly timeless.
The front porch needs a post at the left end. The modern garage door should go, replace with paneled white, or blue, or wood. Can the driveway be changed, so that it isn’t leading straight to the garage door, but rather approaching from the left? Don’t make the garage the first (or only) thing you see as you approach. If you can, there could even be a row of shrubbery, or a gated fence, separating the garage from the left side.
Why two posts on the same subject? Paint the garage door the same color as the siding and the front door a brighter color leave it alone. Landscaping is the key.
I'd make the front door and garage door a medium natural wood and leave the rest the same.
HU, a 75" TV at 12' distance works well, even though some will say you need an 85" at that distance. I would go with 65" minimum, but 75" is probably a sweet spot in terms of cost and size.
" Not sure the second plan gains you much. "
@andy would be fairly certian this is not a dimema any longer being the the post is 2 years old.
Quartzite should not etch with citrus. If it does, not a quartzite. But it can still etch with harsh chemicals.
Thien Ly 5 year old post, did not need 3 replies.
Evidently, from your description this is a living finish and patina is naturally occuring. However, patina happens over time, NOT 2 weeks in. The patina typically is not removed and once starts is permenant, That to me is an issue and would certainly go in a different direction after removing that fixture. Hopefully the store helps you out as that is a manufacturer issues in my mind. BUT that being said they will tell you it is a living finish and naturally occuring and you should have know what you were buying. I do not agree in this instance but that is what they all may well hang their hat on.
Black spots in the first week are not the normal patina for a living finish — that develops slowly and evenly over time, not as patchy black spots that survive polishing. I'd stop polishing it for now, since more polishing can wear the finish and make a warranty claim harder. Take dated photos of every piece, keep the Ferguson receipt and Kallista's care guide, and put the problem in writing to both Ferguson and Kallista, including that their own rep said in person it did not look right. Ask specifically for a replacement under warranty rather than another polish, and keep a copy of everything. If they keep calling it normal aging, that written record is what you will need to push it further.
I would listen to your designer on this one. Over the toilet looks like a good use of space until you need to service it, flush the unit, or reach the shutoffs, and then the access gets awkward fast. A nearby closet or a spot on the wall just outside the bath usually works better, as long as the run to the shower stays short and the unit is easy to reach.
Leak Detection Los Angeles year old post, no need digging these up all the time.
" I don’t really want to reconstruct the wall. "
Bite. The. Bullet.
In addition, the drapes won’t do anything for sound. You need to think about soundproofing.
OP - has not responded to any of the suggestions!
" See if it could be professionally polished again and let new buyers decide? "
Between what G&S says above and this question by you is your answer.
@dan1888 Fair point on the buyer pool. If they do replace it, I'm with you, engineered European oak over LVP every time, and get a moisture test on the slab first. My take is still cost vs return. Covering or removing a stained slab is real money before resale, while a regrind and a lighter neutral stain kills the dated chocolate tone for a fraction. Staying ten plus years, go oak. Selling soon, refinish the concrete.
These forums help with the info to check pricing for two specific choices. The op can focus on learning more about 2 things now. I think that's a good start. Eoropean Oak is totally different in grain than domestic white or red oak. Closed grain allows flat cut to show off the grain cathedrals using 7 to 11 inch wide boards. Go for hardwood eucalyptus or birch plywood core, especially using a 3mm top layer to reduce denting.
Another thing t check in addition to moisture content is floor flatness. LVP is thin with various quality levels of holding power for the different locking mechanisms. You need a flatter floor over a 10 foot area than is needed for much thicker laminate or engineered planks. 1/8" over 6 feet. 3/16" over a 10 foot span for LVP, laminate and engineered. These requirements are the same but LVP flexes and this is more likely to lead to failure of the locking mechanism, imo. Flatter is always better for everything.
Ocala Pro AC Repair 3 year old post.......................
Is that screening or glass. Right off hand I would say it is screening. If so, you are already open to the exterior which is the best cooling strategy if you have air flow. I do think an umbrella like you are showing will be necessary on sunny day. Perhaps you could supplement the air flow with one or two tall floor fans.
I’d postpone the cabin trip until the situation is checked properly. Bed bugs can hitchhike in luggage, coats, and car upholstery, and not everyone reacts to bites. Washing helps, but a hot dryer cycle is more reliable. If they still go, keep bags sealed, avoid upholstered furniture, and unpack straight into the dryer afterward.
I’ve dealt with an exposure before, and getting a professional inspection early was much less stressful than guessing. A Bed Bug Exterminator Milwaukee service may be able to give a free phone consultation and explain whether heat, chemical treatment, or both makes sense.
" I’d postpone the cabin trip until the situation is checked properly. "
11 year old post................... ezzzzzrider
" I'm halfway through my second home build "
" It's given me an idea, but before I build anything "
" Here are some pictures of my latest bathroom design adventure! "
But, which is it? Is this your home? This is confusing.
I just edited the post to be more clear.
Lots of AI chats that can easily do this for people these days ... you just have to notice the weird stuff that AI does that aren't quite right.
I've said this before and I'll repeat it here: if I had a client who was crowd-sourcing ideas on the internet, I would not be happy. It's bad enough when you have to deal with in-laws, friends, colleagues, et al, who give their advice on your decor. But when you have a myriad of strangers, it's quite insulting.
Unless your designer is not helping you, is not responsive to your needs and wants, then trust him or her to do what's best for you and your home. No one here knows you as well as they do. And if you feel that your designer not all you wanted, then find someone else. Or fire him or her, and ask away on Houzz.
You will also need to do some serious work in that area as you have some fairly serious water damage there and what you cannot see will most lilely be worse. That much water damage leads me to think something has been leaking for quite some time. I am afraid you are thinking bandaids when you will need surgery.
Yes, i plan on keeping it open for a few weeks. The ceiling looks good so far, pretty dry. The pipe drip has stopped after replacing things. However, my plan is leave the cutouts open for a few more weeks just to be sure. ty!
That's a sensible plan. Leaving the cutouts open is the right call, and a reading on the joists that keeps falling is the best sign. Run a full shower, then check the ceiling and the cutout the next morning, since a slow leak often only shows after the cavity has been wet for hours. If a stain or a damp reading comes back, that's the point to have the pipe and drain checked before you close it up.
Pictures of the entire kitchen including flooring would help. Context is key...................
Before choosing, consider your exposure. I love SW Alabaster in my north facing Florida home. But in other exposures, it can pull yellow at certain times of the day.
Also, either buy or create sample boards of your choices See what happens to them throughout the day.
You have a lovely kitchen !
ETA What color are your backsplash tiles? I would see which choice relates to them as well as the counter.
Thank you! Alabaster is a lovely color, my kitchen windows face west and I do intend to get a few sample boards. I honestly dont recall the backsplash name. Thank you for your interest, appreciate your suggestions!!