Garden
Create a space to connect with others Combining gardens to allow for social connection was the intriguing concept proposed by The Core Arts Front Garden Revolution, designed by Andy Smith-Williams. By designing a joint front garden that spanned two separate homes, the space reflected Core Arts’ mission “to support people experiencing mental health difficulties by promoting social inclusion and reconnecting individuals with their communities”. We can take inspiration for our own gardens with a fresh look at the way we connect our outdoor spaces and engage with others, from open-link fences between gardens to seed-swapping and plant-sharing within communities.
Provide spaces to talk The idea of a garden as a safe space that can “facilitate and stimulate conversation” was the basis of The Place2Be Securing Tomorrow Garden designed by Jamie Butterworth. Drawing on the importance of the connection with plants and the natural world for mental health and wellbeing, the planting was deliberately lush to create a feeling of safety, with plenty of spots for children and adults to sit and talk in peace. Adding a small bench or boulder, or simply extending a raised bed, would create the same opportunity for conversation in any outdoor space, and using lots of lush foliage and evergreen planting would create the cocooning, intimate feel that made this garden so special.
The forget-me-nots come out early and cover a lot of soil that would otherwise be bare in the early part of the year. That gives the frogs safe cover when they’re vulnerable,” Jane says. After they’ve flowered for a while, most of them can be pulled out to make space for other plants to come up. As they’re self-seeders, they’ll spread again the following year. The purple-flowering plant is honesty. “It’s a self-seeder. It can cope with shade and, once it pops up, it just keeps going,” Jane says. “It’s a really nice plant in the spring. It fills gaps and it has very pretty seedheads after the flowers. It’s a good one if you want a slightly wild look in your garden.”
This is the wildlife pond, which is separated from the fish pond by big rocks and planting shelves on both sides. “You can’t really see where one pond ends and the other begins, as there’s a seam of planting between them,” Jane says. “This pond is very much designed for the frogs, with its shallow beach,” she says. “There’s a filter in here, but it doesn’t get turned on when the tadpoles are little, because you don’t want them getting sucked into it. Once the tadpoles have gone, it can be turned on and it will clear the water.”
Pond plants grow much faster and more vigorously than most land plants, so you can start off with not much,” Jane says. There are various waterlilies in the pond, but also water hawthorn – the white flowers seen here. “They aren’t as showy as waterlilies, but they appear much earlier in the season, so they provide cover,” Jane says. “It’s a tough, reliable plant, and it’s there longer than the waterlilies. “What’s really important, though,” she stresses, “is your oxygenator – pondweed. It has a massive role to play in terms of keeping the water fresh. I use hornwort, an excellent native plant.” The plants in and around the pond nicely illustrate Jane’s skill in mixing colours and textures. As well as the grey-green juniper and bold arum lilies (seen in the previous photo), there’s the lime-green grass, Carex elata ‘Aurea’, which is a signature plant. “It stays that lovely light colour all season,” Jane says. “It’s very good for helping to disguise the back edges of a pond. You can grow it in damp soil, but it really likes living in water.”
Pond plants grow much faster and more vigorously than most land plants, so you can start off with not much,” Jane says. There are various waterlilies in the pond, but also water hawthorn – the white flowers seen here. “They aren’t as showy as waterlilies, but they appear much earlier in the season, so they provide cover,” Jane says. “It’s a tough, reliable plant, and it’s there longer than the waterlilies. “What’s really important, though,” she stresses, “is your oxygenator – pondweed. It has a massive role to play in terms of keeping the water fresh. I use hornwort, an excellent native plant.” The plants in and around the pond nicely illustrate Jane’s skill in mixing colours and textures. As well as the grey-green juniper and bold arum lilies (seen in the previous photo), there’s the lime-green grass, Carex elata ‘Aurea’, which is a signature plant. “It stays that lovely light colour all season,” Jane says. “It’s very good for helping to disguise the back edges of a pond. You can grow it in damp soil, but it really likes living in water.”
What are the best materials to use? “If a building is erected under Permitted Development rights, there’s freedom with the choice of materials,” Angus says. “If Planning Permission is required, there may be more limitations in terms of materials.” He says choice will be determined by whether you want to complement the original building or create something different, and suggests you consider the lifespan, cost, embodied energy and maintenance of the materials. Wood is a popular choice for outbuildings, say our experts. “Timber is a natural, renewable material; it’s quicker to build and more forgiving to changes,” Andrew says. “Above all, it’s aesthetically softer and tends to fit into garden and rural surroundings.” “Some timber, such as cedar and larch, can be left ’natural’ to weather, so won’t require repeated maintenance, such as painting,” Angus says. “Kebony and accoya are modified softwoods from sustainable and renewable sources. They have very good durability, acting like hardwoods, and will last up to 80 years untreated.” Andrew highlights the longevity of seasoned oak and adds, “Timber properties from the 16th and 17th centuries are still standing, providing reassuran...
What else should I consider? “Services and utilities are a key component,” Angus says, pointing to power, heating, water supply and drainage as necessary requirements. He suggests installing photovoltaic solar panels and a storage battery for a more energy-efficient supply of electricity. He also recommends using super insulation, an airtight construction, and a mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR) system to reduce heating bills. If these are installed, Angus says it’s very possible “to achieve net zero carbon for an outbuilding, and have it ‘off grid’, with no requirement to connect it to the mains electrical supply to the house”. Don’t forget about broadband, too, Angus adds. “Relying on Wi-Fi may cause problems, so hardwiring a connection from the broadband router will be required,” he says.
Will I need Planning Permission to build accommodation in my garden? If your annexe is to be used as accommodation, you would usually need to apply for Planning Permission. “Each council has a slightly different protocol. However, as a general rule, a full planning application takes up to 10 weeks (pre planning applications less),” Andrew Guppy says. “You’re not necessarily restricted in the same way with heights as you would be if you were building a garden room under Permitted Development [maximum height under these rules is usually 2.5m],” Jakki Cosgrove says. “However, the scale of those parameters sits well in domestic environments. “Good communication with the planning department is essential,” she adds, “and pre-application guidance is generally available from local councils if you want to establish the principle before advancing too far into the project.” “Converting an existing building into a liveable space is always an option,” Andrew suggests. “It’s best to start by assessing its structural integrity along with its current insulation requirements, in particular the floor, which will probably need insulating along with the walls.”
What are your favourite container-suitable trees? Katie recommends Acer palmatum (Japanese maple). The version pictured here is a single-stemmed variety, but Katie loves the multi-stemmed form of this tree. “It really lends itself to being grown in a pot, creating a beautiful focal point,” she says. Edward picks out the ‘Orange Dream’ variety, of which he says, “Blink and it’s changed colour again. It’s good for constant colour changes throughout the growing season.” Two more of his favourites are the versatile Prunus incisa ‘Kojo no mai’ – “Simply stunning, delicate flowers, beautiful autumnal colour, small in stature,” – and Amelanchier lamarckii – “One of my favourite trees: stunning spring flowers and breathtaking autumnal colours.” “I clearly have a Mediterranean influence, because I love to see Juniperus scopulorum ‘Skyrocket’ and Olea europaea in container gardens,” Jonathan says. “Or, for a bit of a feature plant, we often use Magnolia stellata.”
Go undercover You can use a cloche or a cold frame to protect certain plants in winter. A single cloche will act as a mini greenhouse that can easily be moved around the garden, but it may need anchoring in strong winds. A cloche will provide good protection from frosts and will also shield some crops from pests and various diseases, such as downy mildew. Make sure it’s ventilated. A cold frame is a great option if you don’t have a greenhouse and want to protect plants such as alpines. It would also be good for overwintering annuals and vegetables. If you need to add insulation, put a layer of bubble wrap on the inside, but remember this may also reduce light levels. If you don’t have a cloche or cold frame, but need to make sure your pots are protected, it’s best to group them together against a south-facing wall. To prevent the roots from freezing, wrap the containers in hessian or bubble wrap.
Utilise an outbuilding In a larger space, an open-sided outbuilding like this one is ideal for storing and hiding bins. It’s painted a heritage shade and is partly screened in front with evergreen topiary to create a visually appealing feature – a great way to smarten up a drab drive in no time. This idea would perfectly complement a traditional or cottage exterior, but if your style is more contemporary than country, you could choose a sleeker style or paint it a darker shade to tie in with your home.
Make it wildlife friendly The aim of this front garden design was to create a wildlife haven. Rather than see the bins as an unsightly obstacle to be hidden away, the owners decided to make them integral to the scheme. They created a sturdy wooden structure with a living roof that works as an extension of the garden and is planted with wildlife-friendly flowers and foliage.
Choose a lattice screen The curved lattice screen in the corner of this courtyard is an attractive feature in its own right, thanks to the decorative cutwork pattern, and offers an elegant way to hide ugly plastic bins from view. By using a flexible screen like this, you can section off as much of the garden as you need to, to store bikes or garden equipment as well as bins. To blend in the structure even further, you could grow climbers up and over the screen or along the wall behind.
Be ambitious with containers If you have a small courtyard, patio or balcony with a hard surface, you don’t need to miss out on lush planting. Simply bring in large containers of different heights and fill them with a variety of plants to create a leafy garden feel. The corrugated steel containers in this Hot Tin Roof Garden by Ellie Edkins, while urban in nature, are circular to introduce soft lines and are planted with lush, shade-loving plants, including ferns, lesser periwinkle, sedges and Geranium ‘Rozanne’, plus the grass Hakonechloa macra ‘Nicolas’ to further soften the look. Ellie has given another layer to the containers by filling one with water (left foreground) to bring in some aquatic plants, including Pontederia lanceolata, which produces lovely spikes of blue flowers in summer. She’s also added height to the courtyard with Fatsia japonica in pots and ferns trailing from shelves to complete the sense of seclusion.
Work in some water The sound of babbling water can both induce relaxation and mask less welcome sounds, especially in urban gardens. Water features also add sparkling light, the opportunity to enjoy water-loving plants and a wonderful environment for wildlife. And ponds don’t have to be grand. A small trough, similar to the one seen in this Blue Diamond Forge artisan garden by the Blue Diamond Group Team, or a simple shallow pebble pond, can bring the look and sounds of a bigger body of water to a small space.
Harness vertical surfaces Making the most of every inch is key in a small garden. If you have large planters, consider drilling in some holes and filling them with leafy plants for a living wall effect. The tumbling foliage on the side of this planter, which is in Michael Coley’s Sky Sanctuary Garden, includes ivy and hart’s tongue fern and adds another layer of greenery beside a small dining area.
Go up the wall When you’re decorating a room, think about including a wall made from a natural material, such as wood. It will provide a visual element from the outdoors to gaze at. Here, the designers at JLB Property Developments have continued the engineered wood floorboards up the wall to create an interesting variation on classic timber panelling. The study is quite a small space, but the owner benefits from a view of the garden on one side, and the beautiful grain of the timber on the other
Choose a fragrant alternative Nepeta, or catmint, has aromatic leaves and can be used as a substitute for lavender. The latter needs very good drainage, so it can sometimes be tricky to grow. Nepeta has a long flowering period and is a tough perennial that regrows and blooms after being cut back. Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ is one of the best varieties for bees. For hedging, try Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’.
Hardy geraniums are very attractive to bees, particularly the blue cranesbill variety. Planted next to chives, they make a great bee-friendly combination. Geranium ‘Orion’ is a good choice for bees. Like the ‘Rozanne’ and ‘Jolly Bee’ varieties, ‘Orion’ is a ‘sterile hybrid’, which means it doesn’t set seed. This allows it to flower persistently for months, with an intense blue, offering a great deal of nectar for honeybees and bumblebees.
Form a circle The common name for the herbaceous perennial Echinops, which is part of the Asteraceae family, is the globe thistle. This glandular plant bears almost perfect spherical flowers and looks great as drifts in the border, or naturalised in grassland. The flowers produce an abundance of nectar for honeybees, as well as pollen for other bees, hoverflies, wasps and butterflies, which can all simultaneously feed from the same flowerhead. Nectar flows up each flower tube and spills over into each top-splayed part of the flower.
to attention Salvia are a large genus of perennials collectively known as meadow sage. They thrive in poor, stony soils. Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ has rich, violet-blue, vertical blooms and is a favourite with many gardeners, as the flowers last for many weeks. Salvia pratensis ‘Indigo’ was originally bred and raised in Berkshire. It has large, violet-blue flower spikes, which are very attractive to bees.
Cut and come again Scabiosa caucasica, or pincushion flowers, as they’re often called, are one of the most lovely summer bloomers and have been a staple as a cut flower for many years. The flowers are highly attractive to bees and butterflies. There are many native wildflower varieties, called field scabious, and if you frequently deadhead them, new blooms will soon appear.
How can I insulate it effectively? When purchasing a timber building, request a thick wall, preferably 44mm to 70mm, Benjamin suggests. “Install insulation in the roof and floor to limit the amount of electricity required for heating,” he adds. Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs) are another eco-friendly option for a garden building, James says. Insulation is integrated into the panels, so it doesn’t need to be installed separately. “SIPs are made from insulation of various thicknesses, are structural, and are completely recyclable,” he explains. “They are so thermally efficient, they satisfy all the U-values required for Building Regulations and also keep the building cool in summer.” “There’s also SuperFOIL insulation that can be used for the walls and concrete slab if you have one,” David says. “It provides thin build-ups with good thermal efficiency and is quick to install.” This saves more floor space compared with bulkier standard insulation
What are the most eco-friendly types of glazing? Benjamin recommends double-glazed, heat-conserving doors and windows manufactured from premium-quality, slow-grown, northern European spruce sourced from managed forests. “The further north, the better the quality,” he says. Draught-proofing for doors and windows is also a must.
Benjamin urges buyers to check for two eco standards when looking to buy or commission a design: the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC), an umbrella organisation that cares for forests locally and globally; and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), an expert in sustainable forest management. Accoya and Tricoya rot-resistant wood composites are another eco-friendly option worth exploring.
The courtyard office Design and build company Constructive and Co managed to install this good-sized room into a small paved garden without letting it dominate the space. Lots of glass – notably at the back as well as the front – makes the construction less solid-looking, as you can see right through it.
Behind the back windows are flowerbeds; once plants are established (there’s already some bamboo making good headway), it will feel like being in the middle of a richly verdant space, rather than being close to the fence. This gap also allows for a flue to run up the back of the building, connected to a wood-burning stove inside.
The wood cladding helps the building to blend comfortably into the garden, too, and complements the brick paving. An adjacent bench and close planting further help to connect the office with the outside space.
How should container trees be fed? Container trees need a bit more attention than trees planted straight into the ground. All our experts underline the benefits of repotting every other spring and replacing around one third of the soil with fresh compost to give them a nutrient boost. Jonathan advises mixing the new soil with a slow-release fertiliser. “I’m a fan of blood, fish and bone,” Edward adds. “It promotes healthy root growth and is a long-lasting feed.” Jonathan suggests then feeding your potted trees with liquid seaweed or tomato feed throughout the growing season. Edward recommends a potash fertiliser every two to three weeks. “It will keep the tree invigorated and fed enough to produce sizeable fruits,” he says
Entice the bees Using sweet-smelling creeping thyme as a ground cover will help to attract bees, as well as create scented mounds to brush past. For a white mat form, opt for Thymus serpyllum ‘Snowdrift’, which has whorls of two-lipped white flowers in the summer. Thymus serpyllum ‘Minor’ is an evergreen with tiny, rich green-grey foliage. In the summer months, that becomes smothered with mini purple-pink blooms, which join together to form a block of bright colour. For a good, bushy thyme, often used in cooking, look for Thymus ‘Silver Posie’, which has white-margined leaves and pale-pink flowers. Thyme thrives in well-drained, dry, sunny positions, so make sure it doesn’t become waterlogged. Another scented creeping plant, often used in the place of a lawn, is the herbaceous chamomile. The aromatic leaves form a dense mat, and daisy-like white flowers are produced in the summer. If planted in shady areas, the lawn will become patchy, so choose open, sunnier sites. Only trim the flowers in late summer to prevent dead patches, and don’t walk on a newly planted chamomile lawn for at least 12 weeks.
Cover shady areas It can be difficult for grass to flourish in patches that get little sun, but there are various plants that do well in shady areas and can act as a soft, spreading lawn. Ajuga reptans, for example, is a great plant for shady areas of the garden and is usually grown for its evergreen foliage rather than the flower. However, in late spring and early summer, you’ll be delighted by the short spikes of deep blue-violet flowers. This plant makes a lovely low-maintenance ground cover to keep your space green. A good choice would be Ajuga reptans ‘Black Scallop’, which can also tolerate sunlight. Pratia pedunculata has tiny, pretty, star-shaped blue flowers. However, it can be very invasive and many people complain they can’t get rid of it once it’s entered the garden. The mat-forming and evergreen Pachysandra terminalis (Japanese spurge) is also a great plant for shady areas. It flowers in the summer, producing upright clusters of tiny white flowers, but most of the year you’re blessed with rosettes of dark-green leaves serrated at the edges. This plant does very well in areas of bare ground between deciduous shrubs and trees.
Grow an outdoor ‘carpet’ There are so many plants that work well in between paving and will act as a creeping carpet. This is useful if you don’t have or want a lawn, as it adds greenery and allows water to drain away. Pictured here is Ajuga reptans, but campanulas also work well as ground cover, and are classified as either annuals, herbaceous or evergreen perennials. Campanula poscharskyana is semi-evergreen and a spreading perennial form of this trailing bellflower, which creates a low mound of rounded leaves. The stems bear lovely blue-violet, star-shaped flowers from spring well into autumn. Campanula looks lovely popping up between steps and stones, and forms a beautiful blue and green carpet. You could also opt for Campanula portenschlagiana, which is a very vigorous form. It has less of a trailing habit, but it still bears bell- or star-shaped flowers on branching stems, forming a dense, low-growing mat.
Exploit it for storage If you’re short of storage, this area can also prove a good spot to slot some in. This covered bike store, created by PLT Design, is a good example. Painted black, the structure partially conceals the cycles, which merge into the backdrop. On top, there’s a green roof filled with shade-loving plants, which will grow to dangle over the edges when they mature.
The building’s nickname comes from its cross-laminated timber (CLT) folded plate origami construction. This type of structure allows for a fast build (the panels were up in just five days) and the adoption of Passivhaus sustainability measures, including super insulation, triple glazing and MVHR (mechanical ventilation with heat recovery), which all feature here. The building’s principal architect, Matt Keeler, believes key to the project being nominated was its sustainability and innovative use of CLT. “[The material] makes beautiful, calm, heat-tight shapes and spaces,” he says. He adds that CLT buildings tend to be designed as square boxes; as well as the already-mentioned footprint of the original garden studio, the shape of this dwelling was influenced by the need to reduce overlooking from the buildings behind it.
The eco-friendly garden dwelling There’s more timber-celebrating design in this project, ‘The Origami House’, by KSKa Architects, which also gained a highly commended at last year’s Structural Timber Awards. The garden building was constructed at the back of the clients’ garden and designed as a self-contained starter home for their daughter. It also works as a comfortable home office, somewhere relatives can stay, and a place for quarantining, if needs be. It’s attached to the family home, a listed house within a conservation area. The unusual shape was inspired by the irregular foundation footprint left behind when an older garden studio was demolished.
To feed the soil, Levy regularly puts back the fruit cores and vegetable leaves from his produce to nourish it. ‘If you dig up a turnip, chop off its leaves, then put them back in the soil,’ he says. ‘You take out, then you give back.’
Levy has planted lavender throughout his garden. ‘It’s for the bees,’ he says. ‘Lavender attracts them and they then help to pollinate the fruit trees. It keeps them going and means I always get fruit.’
For Levy, the benefits of the no-dig technique stretch well beyond the quality of soil it creates and the abundance of fruit and veg that grows. ‘It’s also easy and quick,’ he says. ‘I’ve done hardly any work in the garden this year: all I’ve done is lay down some mulch. I did that last September and I’ll do it again around now as it takes about a year to break down and reduce.’ This is gardening for the time-pressed and space-poor urban dweller. ‘Anybody can do it!’ says Levy. ‘If you live in a flat with only a balcony, put a plant pot out on it. Add some worms, some coffee grounds or cocoa husks, and some mulch, and then feed the soil with your own fruit and veg scraps. Simple
Establish a mini nature reserve If you enjoy watching wildlife and listening to the sounds of the natural world, from rustling grasses to frogs and bees, why not turn your whole garden into a wildlife haven? Designer Paul Richards removed the scrappy lawn in this relatively modest urban space and created a journey through different planting and seating zones. Key to the design is a winding pathway, so the garden is gradually revealed as you wander along, which helps it to feel much bigger than it is. “You have to walk through it to find out what’s there, creating lots of interest,” Paul says. There’s a wildlife pond and planting that attracts insects, and, as Paul says, “If you bring in insects, then you also bring in birds, which the owners are quite keen on – there are several feeders throughout the garden as well.”
Create a private seating area The patio area of any garden is typically where you need the most privacy. By building a small pergola off the back of the house, or a freestanding one covered in climbing plants, you’ll soon have a secluded area in which you can entertain – or just sit – without feeling as if you’re in a goldfish bowl! Arrange potted plants around the patio for extra privacy and to enclose the area. The idea is to feel nestled, much as you might sitting outdoors in a restaurant where containers are placed on the pavement to distance you from the traffic and pedestrians
Hedge your bets Hedges provide shelter, dampen sound and give privacy. Some gardens will have had well-established hedges for many years. These may be so big they become very difficult to maintain, or start to look scrappy in places if they haven’t been looked after. If you want to introduce a hedge into your garden and are looking for alternatives to Leylandii or privet, you could opt for Osmanthus delavayi, Ligustrum ovalifolium ‘Aureum’, Elaeagnus pungens ‘Maculata’ or Viburnum tinus, or, for the bright red foliage, Photinia ‘Red Robin’. For another idea, try a living wall, with different species of herbaceous plants, including edibles, grown in pockets fixed to a wall. This is great for adding more interest to stark brick and you can cover any unsightly bumps and cracks.
Raise a roof Creating a seating area that’s not overlooked by neighbouring properties can be hard in an urban plot. A corner of the garden can become a good place to build a structure with a solid roof – or an open roof decked in climbers. A covered seating area not only adds a bit of height, it allows you to have a secluded hideaway in which to enjoy your garden well into the late summer evenings without feeling as if you’re on show. The addition of garden lighting and soft cushions will make this a go-to spot in the garden. Clematis montana will smother a pergola in no time; for a good scented one, opt for ‘Mayleen’. For repeat-flowering scented roses (which can be vigorous), try ‘Wedding Day’ and ‘Madame Alfred Carrière’, which is suitable for shady areas.
Amos Goldreich Architecture designed the new building to extend the full width of the garden at the back, on its raised level. The clever design of the garden between it and the house means ample space for seating remains, while established climbers near the house, framing the view of the new building, plus a raised bed adjacent to it, keep the space looking leafy. In addition, the new building has a sedum roof to absorb rainwater and contribute to local biodiversity. The outhouse itself impressively packs a lot into a small and sensitively designed, unobtrusive space, including substantial storage, a studio, a shower room and a TV. It has skylights, a window and a glazed door to bring in lots of natural light
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