Gardening
Strawberries: When to plant: In cold-winter climates, plant when the ground can be worked in early spring about three weeks to one month before the last frost date; plant in winter and early spring or fall in warm-winter climates Climate: Strawberry varieties can be found for every climate condition, from cold to hot, from dry to damp or humid. Check with your nursery or cooperative extension for the best varieties for your climate, and be sure to buy resistant plants if diseases are a problem in your area. Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade for Alpine strawberries; full sun or partial shade for musk berries Water requirement: Regular Planting: However you plan to plant, choose a site with very rich, well-drained (even sandy), slightly acidic to neutral soil. If your soil is alkaline, grow the berries in raised rows or beds, or consider using containers. Work a complete fertilizer into the soil, and if you want, build small hills or mounds to elevate the plants slightly and create watering basins or furrows. Set the plants in place, spreading out the roots and spacing them about 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart for most berries, 8 to 12 inches apart for alpine strawberries. ...
Bok Choy: When to plant: Best in midsummer for a fall harvest. You can also sow early, slow-to-bolt varieties in spring after nighttime temperatures reach 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Days to maturity: 50 to 85 Light requirement: Full sun; partial shade where hot Water requirement: Regular Favorites: Napa: Blues, Bilko, China Bride, Jade Pagoda, Michihli, Minuet, Rubicon Pak choi (bok choy): Joi Choi, Mei Quing Choi, ToiChoi Planting and care: Sow seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Thin pak choi seedlings to 8 inches apart; thin other varieties up to 18 inches apart, depending on the final head size. The soil should be fertile and well drained. Do not plant where you’ve planted other cabbage family members in the past two years. Keep the soil evenly moist and weed free. Feed it one time during the growing season with a complete high-nitrogen fertilizer. Like other cabbage family members, Chinese cabbage is susceptible to a number of pests and diseases. Keep the garden clean and watch for encroaching pests to combat an invasion early. Check regularly for signs of disease and treat or remove the infected plant. Harvest: Cut the entire head of Napa-type cabbages whe...
Collard Greens: When to plant: In cold-winter climates, set out plants in spring or late summer, or sow seeds in late summer (it grows best in autumn). In mild-winter climates, either sow seeds or set out plants in spring and again in late summer for a fall and winter crop. Days to maturity: 50 to 85 Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Water requirement: Regular to light Favorites: Champion, Georgia Southern Flash, Vates traditional landscape Collards Add to ideabook Planting and care: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart; set plants 1 to 2 feet apart. Thin seedlings to that same distance (use the thinnings in a stir-fry). The soil should be fertile and well drained. Do not plant where you’ve planted other cabbage family members in the past two years. Keep the soil weed free. Water less than you would for other cabbage family members to prevent the plant from growing too tall. Keep your watering schedule consistent, though, to sweeten the greens. Collards are far less prone to problems than other cabbage family members, but keep an eye out for aphids, cabbage loopers, cabbage works and harlequin bugs. Damping off can be an issue. Harvest: Cut off the lo...
Parsnips: When to plant: Late winter, early spring or fall Days to maturity: 90 to 130 Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Water requirement: Regular Favorites: Albion, Half-Long Guernsey, Hollow Crown, Javelin, Lancer Planting and care: Like their carrot relatives, parsnips need a fine soil that's free of lumps or stone. Break up the soil at least 1 1/2 feet deep and till in sand and fine compost a few weeks before planting. The seeds themselves are very small and fine; pellated seeds are a good choice, as they won’t blow away quite as easily. Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and 1 inch apart; thin seedlings to 3 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist and the area around the plants weed free. Mulching will help preserve moisture and keep weeds down. Potential pests include armyworms, cabbage root maggots, flea beetles, leafhoppers and nematodes. Harvest: Dig up roots using a spade or a spading fork, then store them in a cool, damp place. If you want to leave them in the ground through a cold winter, cover them with a foot of hay or straw to keep the ground from freezing. Mark with tall stakes so you can find them when the snow falls. In the coldest climates, it’s b...
Celery When to plant: After the last frost in spring in cold-winter climates; fall through spring in mild-winter climates Days to maturity: 90 to 120 Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Regular Favorites: Celery: Conquistador, Georgia Southern, Giante Pascal, Golden Boy, Tall Utah 52-70 Improved, Tango, Tendercrisp Celeriac: Brilliant, Diamant, Giant Prague Planting and care: Start seeds indoors about 10 weeks before your planned planting date. In cold-weather climates, set out plants after the last frost date in spring. In mild-winter climates, set out from fall to spring whenever the soil temperature is above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Place plants 6 to 10 inches apart. Keep the soil constantly moist and fertilize regularly; liquid fertilizer is best. Problems include aphids, cabbage loopers, leafhoppers, nematodes, wilt and blights. Three to four weeks before harvest, tie the tops of celery stalks together and either mound soil over them or cover them with rolled-up newspaper, pipes, cans or milk cartons (with ends removed). The leaves should not be covered. You don’t need to blanch celery, however; unblanched celery has a stronger flavor and is more nutritious. Ha...
Fennel: When to plant: Ideally in summer so it will mature in fall; or start seeds indoors about 1 1/2 to 2 months before the last frost date and set out plants once there is no longer a danger of frost. Days to maturity: 60 to 100 Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Regular Favorites: Bronze, Bronze & Green, Di Firenze, Orion, Herald, Trieste, Zefa Fino Planting and care: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and 1 inch apart, then thin to 10 inches apart. Set plants at that same distance. The soil should be fertile and well drained. Water regularly and keep the area around the plants free of weeds; mulching will help deter weeds and keep the soil cool. Once bulbs starts to form, mound soil around them to blanch them. Harvest: Pull the entire plant to harvest once it has reached full size.
Leeks: When to plant: Because of the long growing season, starting with seedlings is preferable. If you do want to grow leeks from seed, start about six weeks earlier than you want to set them out. They are truly fall vegetables when it comes to planting date. You can set them out in spring on the first frost date in areas where summers are mild. Otherwise set them out in the fall so they will be mature in spring. Days to maturity: 90 to more than 200 Light requirement: Full sun, though needs some shade in very hot summers Water requirement: Regular watering Favorites: Bandit, Blue Solaise, Giant Musselburgh, King Richard, Varna Planting and care: Transplant seedlings into regular, rich soil about 5 inches deep and at least 2 feet apart (4 feet apart is probably better). Keep the soil consistently moist and fertilize it every few weeks. Pests are relatively rare, though you may have problems with thrips. As the plants grow, mound soil around the bottoms to blanch the stalks. Keep the soil just below the leaf joints so it doesn’t find its way into the shanks. Harvest: When the stems reach 1/2 inch to 2 inches thick, gently work them out of the soil. You’ll probably need a sp...
Cabbage: When to plant: Like most cool-season crops, cabbage is happiest growing in fall or spring. For spring planting, sow the seeds of an early variety in very early spring. You can also start them indoors about six weeks before the last frost date and set out transplants three weeks later. For fall and winter crops, plant seeds of midseason and late varieties in late summer. Days to maturity: 50 to 100 Light requirement: Full sun is best; partial shade is also fine, especially if the weather heats up quickly. Water requirement: Provide ample water and keep the soil moist. Favorite cabbage varieties: Alcosa, Arrowhead, Brunswick, Early Jersey Wakefield, Gonzales, January King, Late Flat Dutch, Mammoth Red Rock, Red Drumhead, Red Express, Red Meteor, Redball, Samantha, Savoy King, Savoy Queen, Super Red 80, Winnigstadt Planting and care: Be sure your soil is fertile and well drained. Sow seeds up to a half inch deep and an inch apart. Give them space, setting them out or thinning them to 1 to 2 feet apart with 2 feet or more between rows. They like water, so keep the bed continually moist. Feed the plants about halfway through the growing season with a complete high-nitroge...
Kale: When to plant: Sow seeds in late summer and fall for fall and winter harvest. For a summer harvest, plant in spring two weeks to a month before the last frost date. Days to maturity: 55 to 75 Light requirement: A sunny spot is best, though afternoon shade is good if the climate is very hot. Water requirement: Water regularly and consistently until just before the first frost. Favorites: Dwarf Blue Curled, Dwarf Siberian, Lacinato, Redbor, Red Ursa, Russian Red, Siberian, Vates, White Russian, Winterbor Planting and care: Sow seeds about a quarter inch deep and an inch apart, then thin to about 8 inches to 1 1/2 feet apart, depending on plant size (eat the thinnings as an early garden treat). Kale does best in good soil with consistent watering. Fertilize the soil with a complete food during planting and about a month later. The plants can reach 3 feet tall, so you may need to stake them. Kale can take some summer heat but is more likely to bloom than to produce leaves then. Pests and diseases are pretty insignificant. Harvest: Start cutting leaves from the outside or else pull up the entire plant.
Composting: Let's start by stating the obvious: Composting can seem daunting. As far as garden activities go, it gets a bad rap. It's associated with yucky smells, out-of-control heaps, rats, gardens full of mushy soil and bits of eggshells. But in reality, it is the best natural ingredient with which to amend your soil. It is higher in nutrient content than any store-bought fertilizer, bagged soil or synthetic product. Best of all, it's free, created right from your garden and kitchen waste. On average, 30 percent of household garbage sent to the landfill is green waste. Home composting helps you lessen the impact on the environment.
Cauliflower: When to plant: For fall gardens, sow seeds or set out transplants in midsummer (for cold-winter climates) or late summer (for mild-winter climates). To plant in spring, start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. (In mild-winter climates, you can sow cauliflower seeds at that time.) Days to maturity: 55 to 100 Light requirement: Full sun; provide partial or light shade if it’s very hot Water: Regular water; do not let soil dry out Favorites: All Year Round, Bishop, Cheddar, Denali, Early Snowball, Fremont, Graffiti, Panther, Snowball Imperial, Snow Crown, Veronica, Violet Queen, White Corona Planting and care: Cauliflower likes rich, well-amended, well-draining soil, consistent water and ambient temperatures in the 60s with some humidity. (California's coastal climates are ideal.) If something goes wrong, it stresses the plant, and the resulting heads are small. Plant it during the ideal growing season for your area and provide consistent care. Sow seeds about a half inch deep and an inch apart, then thin to 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart. Set transplants at this same distance. Fertilize when you plant, then continue to fertilize regularly while growing....
Garlic: When to plant: Plant in fall for the best results. Planting times vary. In cold-winter areas, plant about six weeks before the ground freezes. In mild-winter areas, wait until later, usually after the first frost. Tradition says plant on the autumn equinox or the shortest day of the year. Time to maturity: Around 9 months Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Keep the soil moist but not overly damp or soggy. Favorites: Ajo Rojo, Bogatyr, Carpathian, Creole Red, German Red, Inchelium Red, Marble Purple Stripe, Polish White, Purple Stripe, Siberian, Silver Rose, Spanish Roja Planting and care: Break the bulbs into individual cloves. Use the largest cloves that have roots attached. Set in the soil so the points face up; the top of the clove should be about 2 inches deep, and the cloves should be set 6 to 8 inches apart; plant elephant garlic a little farther apart. Cover them and keep the soil moist but not soggy. In cold-weather climates, thoroughly cover with mulch during the winter months to prevent any soil heaving caused by temperature fluctuations. Remove the mulch in spring and continue to keep the soil moist while the bulbs develop. Keep the garden bed ...
Rhubarb: Caution: Rhubarb leaves are toxic. When to plant: Plant the crowns, or roots, in late winter or early spring; if growing rhubarb as an annual, plant it in fall. Years to maturity: If you're growing it as a perennial, you may be able to begin harvesting after two years; by four years, the crop should be substantial. Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Regular Favorites: Chipman, Canada Red, Cherry Red, Crimson, GermanWine, Macdonald, Raspberry Red, Riverside Giant, Strawberry, Sunrise, Valentine, Victoria Planting and care: Before setting out crowns, add plenty of compost to the planting area and create a low mound (for more than one plant, space every 4 feet). Set the crowns an inch below the soil. Water so the area is continually moist and mulch to keep the ground cool; rhubarbs do not like it hot and dry. Feed the soil with a high-nitrogen complete fertilizer in spring when stalks first emerge and then again after harvest. In mild-winter climates, remove the flowers when they appear, as they will diminish production. Divide the plant if it becomes too large. Rhubarb is relatively pest free, though you may run into aphids, beetles and leafhoppers. Har...
Onions: When to plant: About a month to a month and a half before the last frost date, once the soil temperature is above freezing (and preferably around 50 degrees Fahrenheit). In mild-winter climates, you can plant again in fall for a spring crop. Days to maturity: 60 to 160 Light requirement: Full sun, though onions can handle light shade Water requirement: Regular Favorites: Long-day: Ailsa Craig, Early Yellow Globe, Ebenezer, Red Delicious, Redwing, Snow White Hybrid, Southport Globe, Sweet Spanish, Walla Walla Sweet, White White Intermediate Day: California Early, Candy, Early Red Burger, Long Yellow Sweet Spanish, Stockton varieties, Superstar, Valencia Short day: Bermuda, Crystal Wax, Granex, Grano, Red Creole, Savannah Sweet, Southern Belle Red, Vidalia Bunching: Evergreen Long White, Parade, Santa Clause, White Lisbon, White Spear Shallots: Ambition, Dutch Yellow, Jermar, Jersey, French Red, Gray (considered the best), Prisma, Pikant, Polka, Red Sun Planting and care: For the best results for large, mature onions, grow from seeds or set out nursery plants. You can also grow from sets but these may bolt or flower before the onions fully mature. If you do want to gro...
Potatoes: When to plant: In spring, four to six weeks before the last frost date (plant a variety that matures early if your climate, and thus your soil, warms up quickly). Plant a late-maturing variety in late spring for cold-winter climates. In mild-winter climates, you can also plant potatoes in late summer to early autumn for a crop that will last into winter. Days to maturity: 90 to 120 Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Regular water Favorites: All Blue, Butte, Buffalo, Butterfinder, Irish Cobbler, Fingerling, Katahdin, Kennebec, Norland, Red La Soda, Red Norland, Red Pontiac, Russet, Superior, Viking, Yukon Gold traditional by Amy Renea Add to ideabook by Amy Renea Planting and care: Start with seed potatoes that are certified as disease free. Do not use potatoes from the supermarket or grocery. The soil should be rich and fast draining, with a pH below 5.5. Create furrows that are about 4 inches deep and 2 to 3 feet apart. Closer rows will let the shade from the plants help keep the soil cool. Cut the seed potatoes into square chunks. Each chunk should be about 1 1/2 inches and have at least two eyes. Let the pieces dry for two days before planting to he...
Salad greens: When to plant: Fall to winter (in mild-winter climates); early spring elsewhere. Radicchio is best when sown in mid to late summer, though some slow-bolt varieties can be sown in spring. Days to maturity: 25 to 40 (arugula, leaf chicory); 35 to 65 (mustard greens); 65 to 90 (endive, escarole); up to 90 (radicchio) Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Water requirement: Regular traditional landscape Escarole Add to ideabook Escarole Planting and care: Sow arugula seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart or scatter them over a garden bed. Add a complete fertilizer at planting time. Once the seedlings have developed at least four leaves, thin to 6 inches apart. (You can eat the thinnings.) Keep the soil moist and free of weeds. Arugula reseeds freely and is fairly resistant to pests. Sow leaf chicory about 1/4 inch deep and 2 inches apart; thin to 6 to 8 inches apart. You can also scatter seeds over a garden bed. Cover with a fine layer of soil and keep moist until seedlings form. Continue to supply regular water and keep the bed weed free. Pests include slugs and snails, aphids, cabbage loopers, cutworms, flea beetles, leafhoppers and leaf miners; downy mild...
Carrots: When to plant: Sow carrot seeds in early spring and then again in late summer if you have cold winters. If your winters are mild, with only occasional light frost, you can grow carrots from late summer through spring. Days to maturity: 30 to 80 Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Regular, even moisture, otherwise they’ll become hard and misshapen Favorites: Bolero, Danvers, Danvers Half Long, Early Nantes, Imperator, Little Finger, Nantes, Royal Chantena, Short 'n Sweet, Thumbelina, Touchon, Yellowstone
Beets: When to plant: Sow seeds in early spring to harvest beets in late spring or early summer. In mild-winter climates, you can also plant them at the end of summer and in early fall. Days to maturity: 45 to 65 Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Water requirement: Regular water Favorites: Big Red, Bull’s Blood, Chioggia, Crosby’s Egyptian, Cylindra, Detroit Dark Red, Formanova, Golden, Gladiator, Green Top Bunching, Little Ball, Little Mini Ball, Lutz Green Leaf, Red Ace, Ruby Queen, Sangria, Sweetheart, Yellow Detroit
Brocolli: When to plant: Start seeds indoors about six weeks before the last frost date in spring; you’ll want to ensure that the crop reaches maturity before hot weather sets in, as it will quickly bolt. Set plants out about two weeks before the last frost date. In climates with mild winters, you can sow seeds late in summer or in early fall to harvest later in the fall or in winter. Days to maturity: 50 to 100 Light requirement: Full sun; partial shade where hot Water requirement: Regular watering Favorites: Apollo, Belstar, Calabrese, Di Cicco, Flash, GreenComet, Green Goliath, Packman, Premium Crop, Purple Sprouting, Romanesco, Sorrento, Spring Raab Planting and care: Broccoli prefers very rich soil, so amend your bed before planting. Sow seeds fairly close to the surface, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep and an inch apart, then thin to 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart, or more if the varieties are very large. Set transplants out at the same spacing. Keep the plants evenly watered and mulch to keep the soil cool. Apply a high-nitrogen complete fertilizer just before heads form. Keep weeds down but be careful when weeding not to damage the roots. Unfortunately, broccoli attracts a range o...
Asparagus: When to plant: Winter or early spring Time to maturity: One year to the first small crop; two years to a full crop Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Regular Favorites: Apollo, Atlas, Guelph Millenium, Jersey Gem, Jersey Giant, Jersey King, Jersey Knight, Jersey Supreme, Mary Washington, Pacific Purple, Purple Passion, Sweet Purple, Teissen, UC 157, Viking Planting and care: Choose your site carefully. The plants will likely live from 15 to 30 years and reach 5 feet tall, so they’re a noticeable presence in any garden. Careful soil preparation is essential. Weeds and grasses can easily crowd out the plants, so remove all extraneous plant materials; with an early enough head start, you can even sterilize the soil to remove any seeds. The soil should be rich and fertile, with a pH above 6. Sandy soil is best, as it needs to drain well and rapidly. If need be, grow asparagus in a raised bed. Dig a trench 12 inches wide and 8 inches (for warmer climates) to 12 inches deep (for cold-winter climates), slightly shallower if your soil is heavy. Place the soil you removed to the side. If you're growing the plants in rows, create the next trench 3 to 6 feet awa...
Radishes: When to plant: Start sowing regular radish seeds two to three weeks before the last frost in spring, and in late summer four to six weeks before the first fall frost. Continue sowing every two weeks or so in both spring and fall. (You may be able to continue into winter in mild climates.) Set out daikon in fall about two months before the first frost. Days to maturity: 21 to 150 Light requirement: Full sun is best, but they can take partial shade Water requirement: Consistent water, but don’t flood the garden bed Favorites: April Cross (daikon), Champion, Cherry Belle, Crimson Giant, Easter Egg, French Breakfast, Hailstone, Long Black Spanish, Minowase (daikon), Plum Purple, Sakurajima (daikon), Scarlet Globe, Snowbelle
Spinach: When to plant: Sow seeds up to two months before the last frost date in spring, then continue sowing every three weeks until just past the last frost date. In fall, sow seeds a month to six weeks before the first frost date; continue through winter in mild-winter climates. Days to maturity: 40 to 150 Light requirement: Full sun to light shade, especially if afternoons will be somewhat hot Water requirement: Provide consistent water but don’t overwater Favorites: Bloomsdale Longstanding, Indian Summer, Marathon, Oriental Giant, Red Cardinal, Space, Tyee Planting and care: Soil should be well drained and well amended. Sow seeds a half inch deep and an inch apart. Thin to 3 to 4 inches apart when seedlings appear (the best and most nutritious way to thin is to pick off the leaves and eat them). Set transplants to this spacing as well. Keep the soil continuously most but not overly wet, and be sure to weed carefully around the plants. Aphids, cabbage worms and leaf miners are the most troublesome pests. Harvest: Either pick off leaves as you need them or harvest the entire plant. If you need the entire plant but don’t want to pull it out, cut off all leaves about an inc...
Chard: When to plant it: Sow seeds in late summer and early autumn for a fall crop; for spring and summer crops, sow seeds or set out seedlings in late winter (in mild climates) or early spring. Days to maturity: You can begin harvesting in about 60 days. Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade where the climate is very hot Water requirement: Keep the soil moist until seeds sprout, then provide regular, consistent watering. Favorites: Bright Lights and Rainbow are best known. Others include Barese, Fordhook Giant, French Swiss, Golden Sunrise, Joseph’s Coat, Lucillus, Perpetual, rhubarb and Ruby Red.
Lettuce: When to plant: For spring crops, sow seeds or set out seedlings in early spring. (See thinning recommendations for spacing.) Continue to sow or transplant every couple of weeks so you’ll have a continuous crop, keeping in mind that unless the garden is shaded, temperatures above about 75 degrees will cause lettuce plants to bolt (flower and set seed). Start up again in late summer or fall, once the soil temperature has cooled. In cold-winter climates, plan your harvest so you’ll have lettuce until the first frost. In mild-winter climates, you can continue to sow or transplant through the winter. Days to maturity: 30 to 90 Light requirement: Sun to partial shade; to prevent it from bolting early, plant where other plants can shade it.
Tomatoes: When to plant: Set out starts or nursery plants when the soil is warm and there's no danger of frost. To grow from seed, start seeds indoors five to eight weeks before your planned planting date. Days to maturity: 50 to 90 days once the plants have been set out Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Regular and deep watering, but let dry out between waterings Planting: Wait until frost is past and the soil has warmed up before planting tomatoes outdoors. Choose a site with rich, well-drained, neutral or slightly acidic soil; amend your soil if it is either alkaline or very acidic. If fusarium or verticillium wilt is a problem in your area, don’t plant where you have planted tomatoes in the past two years. Look for a site in full sun for at least six and preferably eight hours per day. Cherry tomatoes can take less sun, but the sunnier the spot, the better the results. If you don’t want to start from seed, you can generally find a good selection of transplants at nurseries, including unusual and heirloom varieties. Look for plants that are short and sturdy rather than tall and lanky and that have not yet set blossoms or fruit. How to Get Your Garden Started...
Q